To plan where we wanted to go in SE Asia on this trip we made a spreadsheet with the countries we wanted to visit, looked up current COVID entry requirements, and assigned a value of easy, medium, or hard for each one. For example, only needing to show proof of negative PCR test before arrival would be easy. Having to book through certified tourism agency and quarantine for 5 days would be considered hard. The next step was researching price of flights from South America to SE Asia. It seemed that across the board the cheapest hub to fly into was Bangkok so we decided to go to Thailand. Even though we’ve both been there before we haven’t been to all the places we wanted to see. Plus, you’re allowed to go diving and partying in Thailand more than once in your lifetime.
I rated Thailand as medium COVID travel difficulty because under the Test and Go Pass scheme you need to obtain a Thai pass before departure (can take a few days to be approved) which requires uploading several documents including certification of paid hotel in a government approved hotel for one night, private airport transfer to hotel, COVID test upon arrival and test kit for 5 days after arrival. We decided to stay at the Courtyard Marriott in Bangkok and (after I filled in a complaint form to get an email address that worked) we were able to sort out all the details and pay with them.
We first flew from Buenos Aires to Sao Paolo. We checked out of the hostel and had an amazing breakfast of French toast and salmon-stuffed hashbrown at a place called Adorado Bar Soho.
Then we got a cab to the airport. We made it through security and passport control with 3 hours to spare and just enough pesos left to get two beers at Outback Steakhouse, two takeaway sandwiches, two alfajores (Argentinian chocolate pastries), and two candies that were 10 pesos each so we only had 10 pesos left over as a souvenir! We were proud of our Club WU money management.
When we started to board they were cleaning the bathrooms nearest to our gate so I ran down to the next bathroom. When I ran back, our zone had already been called so we rushed to the front. Even though we were given mobile boarding passes (not sure why) they stopped us and asked to check all our required documents to get into Thailand (fair). Keep in mind this was a flight from Buenos Aires, Argentina to Sao Paolo, Brazil and it was operated by Air Canada. The plane was scheduled to go to Toronto after. So, when the man at the desk argued with us about Thailand entry requirements, we understood it was not his field of knowledge. We showed him everything but his documentation said that we needed 5 night paid hotel stay (a different entry scheme) while we showed him the Thai embassy website that clearly said only 1 night is needed under Test and Go. We argued for a bit but then I could tell they held all the cards (our boarding passes!) and were not relenting. So we tried to book the same hotel for 4 more nights. The airport WiFi had worked great at Outback Steakhouse but, of course, was essentially not working in front of the gate. Everyone else had boarded and they looked like they were getting ready to close the gates. I started to freak out. Luckily, a nice staff person offered for us to use his hotspot (bless you sir!). We were able to book the Courtyard for 4 more nights, show the confirmation email to the other two staff who were not as helpful and get on the plane right before they closed the gate. When we got to Thailand we confirmed we just needed the one night and I was able to cancel the other nights, without penalty (thanks Marriott!). During the three hour flight we watched Nightmare Alley.
In Sao Paolo they disembarked everyone and funneled us into a hallway. We were supposed to have a 2.5 hour layover but the plane was late by an hour so we only had 1.5 from landing until next take off. They asked for passengers going to Toronto and Montréal to go through security first. We figured their plane was taking off before ours so we obliged. Then we realized we only had 30 minutes before our boarding time and a long line ahead of us. The girl behind us had a connecting flight that was already boarding. Using her, we asked staff if we could jump the line, and they let us. We rushed through security. They threw out my water (not Carl’s) and our bug spray. Carl started to protest the bug spray and I said “there’s no time, man!!” so he let the woman take it and we charged. When we made it to the gate they had just started boarding. We were zone 2 and well placed to board the plane early. When we got to the front of the line they looked at our Air Canada boarding passes and made us go to their agent.
Qatar airlines had to recheck all our requirements for Thailand. I said ‘fair’ but wondering how we would be allowed to get stuck in Sao Paolo but not Doha…The man questioned our travel insurance, like they had done before in Bolivia. I showed him a letter from World Nomads (for Argentina and our last travel policy that ended in March) that explained that health coverage includes COVID coverage. Why people don’t see that health coverage includes COVID (is it not a health problem??) I don’t know. But I recommend you purchase insurance that specifically has the words COVID coverage to avoid this ridiculous issue. The guy took both our phones (Carl’s had the coverage, mine had the letter) to show his manager. I prayed to the travel gods and they came through, they accepted it.
Then they asked for proof of exit for Thailand. I had read that we might need to show this, depending on the person working deciding to ask for it. We told them we had a bus to Cambodia scheduled. They asked to see the ticket and we had nothing to show. So again, with minimal internet – only LTE- I somehow used the Hopper app to buy a plane ticket to Siem Reap. A lot of people were transferring in Doha to go to Australia so at least we weren’t the only ones frantically trying to prove we met requirements at the gate. Our confirmation email came in minutes before they closed the gate and they let us board. When we got on the plane I canceled the flight but did incur a fee.
The flight from Sao Paolo to Doha was 14 hours. We watched Last Night in SOHO, Gattaca, and the new Scream. They fed us dinner, snacks and breakfast. When we asked for beer the steward said that because of Ramadan she had to bring two cups of foamy beer from the back instead of a can. I still don’t understand how that skirted Ramadan rules but it was funny to drink out of several plastic cups, especially because the young Brazilian guy next to us was taking selfie videos and going ‘woooo!’ We tried to sleep, but I wasn’t very successful.
In Doha, touted as the gateway to the world, we had about 1.5 hour layover. The transfer was easy, we found the gate, and stood in line to check in. They had us check in before boarding (smart) and only asked to see our Thai pass (should’ve been this way the whole time!). We were quickly and nicely approved and we waited in a separate room until boarding.
The flight from Doha to Bangkok was 7 hours and we watched Split, another scary movie to keep our theme going. They turned the lights on to give out food at about 2-3 am plane time because they had to wait until sundown to serve the meal. We had no idea what time it was anyway so we didn’t mind but Split was such a dark movie that we could barely see it when the lights were on. SPOILER!!! (did he just eat her?)
Upon arrival in Bangkok at 6:15am they asked to see the Thai pass again and some paperwork we had filled out on the plane. It was quick and efficient. Then we went to the area where hotels pick up passengers for private transport. We only had to wait a little while before they escorted us to our driver, in a nice black car. When we got to the hotel the driver drove into the parking garage. There was a poor woman sitting in the dark garage wearing a face shield, white coveralls, and gloves. She had our names on stickers and was ready to give us our COVID test. She reached into the car to give us our tests and afterward the driver pulled around front and we checked in as if it were normal times. They didn’t explain where the pool was or what time breakfast was served because we had to go quarantine ourselves until we got our results back anyways. We went upstairs and had the BEST showers of our lives. I felt reborn. We then took a nap until just after 1pm when the front desk called to tell us our results: Not Detected. I said, “negative?” and she said “yes!”. Then we were free to explore.
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